Cham Islands

Cu Lao Cham lies about fifteen kilometres off the mouth of the Thu Bon river, a cluster of granite islands of which only one, Hon Lao, has a road, a village and beaches. Boats leave in the morning, usually as part of a day trip that takes in snorkelling over the coral reserve, lunch in the village and an afternoon on Bai Chong or Bai Ong. Onshore there is a small market, an old well, a temple and a road that climbs to a lookout over the strait. The islands and much of the water around them are a marine protected area within a biosphere reserve, so fishing and collection are limited in parts of the bay.

What you actually see

• Snorkelling grounds - the shallow coral areas inside the marine protected zone.
• Bai Chong and Bai Ong - the two main beaches, with clear water and shade trees.
• The island village - the fishing settlement with its market, temple and old well.
• The strait crossing - the speedboat run out from the mainland past the river mouth.

When to go

March to August is the only reliable season; from roughly October to February rough seas suspend crossings for days at a time. Go on a weekday, since Vietnamese weekend trips fill the beaches quickly. Boats leave early morning and return mid afternoon, and overnight stays have to be arranged in advance with a homestay on the island.

Honest expectations

Day trips are heavily packaged: fixed timings, large groups and a rushed half hour of snorkelling at a crowded spot. Reef quality is patchy and visibility varies a lot. The beaches fill with sunbeds and lunch tables in high season. Speedboat crossings are bumpy and unpleasant in swell, and trips are cancelled outright when the sea is rough, sometimes at very short notice.

Nearby

Hoi An and its river mouth are the departure point, with Da Nang about an hour north.