The Swiss Guard

At the Vatican's gates stands the world's most photographed army: the Pontifical Swiss Guard, serving since 1506, its hundred-odd halberdiers recruited under the old rules - Swiss, Catholic, of good repute - and uniformed in the Renaissance tricolour whose design tradition (Michelangelo's hand is legend, not record) makes every sentry a living painting. Visitors watch the ceremonial at Sant'Anna gate and the Bronze Doors, catch the guard at papal audiences, and - each May 6, anniversary of the 1527 Sack's last stand - the swearing-in ceremony fills the San Damaso courtyard with oaths in four languages and the year's full pageantry.

What you actually see

• The gate sentries - halberds and tricolour at Sant'Anna.
• The audience details - the guard at papal ceremonies.
• The May 6 oath - the swearing-in's full pageant.
• The 1506 continuity - five centuries of the same service.

When to go

Year round at the gates; May 6 for the swearing-in (courtyard access is invitation-scarce, the square's screens generous). Audiences schedule the ceremonial sightings.

Honest expectations

The guards are working soldiers, not photo props - courtesy at the posts, no wheedling for poses; the famous uniform photographs best at the gates' natural business.

Nearby

St Peter's Square, the basilica and the Portone di Bronzo.