The Vatican Gardens

Behind the basilica, the world's smallest state spends most of its territory on green: the Vatican Gardens terrace the hill in Renaissance parterres, baroque fountains (the Galleon's water-cannon ship the showpiece), palm and cedar groves, the Lourdes grotto replica and the medieval Leonine walls threading it all - the popes' walking retreat since the fourteenth century, kept by a corps of gardeners to processional standard. Access runs by guided tour only, booked through the Museums: small groups, set routes and the particular hush of a garden that doubles as a sovereign backyard, with dome views the postcards cannot buy.

History

Pious tradition says the ground was spread with soil from Calvary brought by the Empress Helena, but the gardens go back to medieval orchards and vineyards north of the papal palace: in 1279 Pope Nicholas III moved his residence back to the Vatican from the Lateran, walled the area and planted an orchard, a lawn and a garden. Early in the 16th century, under Julius II, the site was relandscaped and Donato Bramante's design divided into the courtyards of the Belvedere, the Library and the Pine Cone, with a great Renaissance labyrinth of box. The gardens, about 23 hectares, cover half the state, and Pope Francis opened them to guided visits in 2014 (Wikipedia, Gardens of Vatican City).

Highlights

• The Galleon fountain - the water-cannon ship of the baroque terraces.
• The parterre views - the dome over clipped geometry.
• The Leonine walls - medieval defence threading the green.
• The grove walks - cedars, palms and the Lourdes grotto.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the planting's best; tours are morning-scheduled and sell out ahead - book with the Museums early.

Before you go

Guided-only means the group's pace, not wandering; dress codes apply as basilica-standard. The garden's quiet is the exhibit - phones on respectful mute.

Nearby

The Museums, the basilica and St Peter's Square.

Key facts