Smith Rock State Park

The rock is welded tuff and basalt from an ancient caldera, standing about 180 metres above a bend of the Crooked River. In the 1980s Alan Watts began establishing routes here using bolts placed on rappel rather than placed from below - a practice imported from Europe that was controversial in American climbing at the time and that became standard, which is why Smith Rock is generally called the birthplace of American sport climbing. About five hundred new routes were added between 1992 and 2009 alone. Misery Ridge is the main hiking trail, climbing steeply to a view over Monkey Face, a 107-metre column with a route through a cave in its head. Golden eagles nest on the walls and sections close seasonally for them.

The landscape

• Welded tuff above the Crooked River - the remains of a caldera.
• The birthplace of US sport climbing - Watts's bolted routes from the 1980s.
• Monkey Face - a 107-metre column climbed through a cave.
• Misery Ridge - the steep hiking trail with the main view.

When to go

March to June and September to November; summer is very hot. A full day.

Practical notes

Summer heat on the rock is severe and shade is minimal. Sections close seasonally for nesting eagles. Parking fills early at weekends. Misery Ridge is steep and earns its name.

Nearby

Bend is south; the Cascades are west.

Key facts