Kodiak Island

Kodiak is the largest island in Alaska and the second largest in the United States, and its brown bears have been genetically isolated from mainland populations since the last glaciation - roughly twelve thousand years - which combined with a rich salmon supply has produced the largest bears on earth, with big males reaching six hundred kilograms or more. Around three and a half thousand live on the archipelago. Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge covers about two thirds of the island and is roadless; access is by floatplane or boat, and viewing is done with guides. The island is also a major commercial fishing port and was the site of Russian colonial settlement from 1784. Rain and fog cancel flights routinely - it is called the Emerald Isle for a reason.

What you actually see

• The largest brown bears on earth - isolated for twelve thousand years.
• Around three and a half thousand bears - across the archipelago.
• A roadless refuge - two thirds of the island, floatplane access only.
• A working fishing port - and a Russian colonial history from 1784.

When to go

June to September; salmon runs concentrate bears in July and August. Several days.

Honest expectations

Weather cancels flights frequently and travellers get stranded for days. Bear viewing requires guides and costs a great deal. Rain is constant. The road system covers a small fraction of the island.

Nearby

Katmai is across Shelikof Strait; Homer is north-east.