Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Two hundred and sixty million years ago a warm sea covered this part of the world and a vast reef grew along its edge; the sea went, the reef was buried, and much later the whole block was pushed up and stripped bare, which is why the Guadalupes are one of the finest exposed fossil reefs on earth. El Capitan stands at the southern end as a sheer prow above the desert, a landmark for anyone crossing this country for centuries, and behind it Guadalupe Peak is the highest point in Texas at just over two and a half thousand metres. The surprise is McKittrick Canyon, where a spring-fed stream supports maples and walnuts that turn scarlet and gold for a couple of weeks each autumn.

What you actually see

• El Capitan - the sheer limestone prow above the desert highway.
• Guadalupe Peak - the highest point in Texas, a hard day hike to the top.
• McKittrick Canyon - maples and walnuts in scarlet for two weeks each autumn.
• The fossil reef - Permian reef rock exposed along the trails.

When to go

October to April is the sensible season; the autumn colour in McKittrick Canyon peaks in late October or early November and draws the year's only crowds. Summer is fiercely hot on the exposed trails. Spring wind here is relentless and can gust hard enough to close trails.

Honest expectations

There is essentially no infrastructure: no lodge, no restaurant, no fuel at the park, and the nearest services are in Carlsbad or Van Horn. Water must be carried for every hike. Spring winds are extreme. The autumn colour window is narrow and crowded, with a car park that fills before mid-morning on peak weekends.

Nearby

Carlsbad Caverns is about forty minutes north; El Paso is two hours west.