Nokhur

Nokhur sits high in the Kopetdag near the Iranian border, a village of terraced stone houses in a valley of walnut and pomegranate, and its people have kept a distinct dialect, dress and set of customs from the surrounding plains. The most striking of these is the cemetery, where graves are marked with the horns of mountain goats, set on posts, in a practice whose origins are argued about. Silk weaving is still done in the village.

What you actually see

• The horned graves - mountain goat horns set on posts over the burials.
• The terraced village - stone houses stepped up the valley sides.
• The walnut and pomegranate - the orchards worked on the terraces.
• The distinct customs - dialect, dress and practice separate from the plains.

When to go

April to June and September to October are the best months. Winter snow can close the mountain road. Summer is hot even at this altitude.

Honest expectations

The road up is rough and needs four-wheel drive in places. The cemetery is a working burial ground and photography needs care and permission. There are almost no facilities in the village.

Nearby

Kow Ata is north, and Parau Bibi is west.