Altyn Asyr Oriental Bazaar

The Altyn Asyr bazaar sits on the desert edge north of Ashgabat, replacing the old Tolkuchka market, and it is laid out from above in the pattern of a Turkmen carpet gül, with rows of stalls forming the medallion. Carpets, fabric, spices, dried fruit, hardware and household goods fill the sections, and on Saturdays and Sundays a livestock market operates on the outer edge with camels, sheep and horses.

What you actually see

• The carpet-pattern layout - the market laid out as a Turkmen gül medallion.
• The carpet rows - the section selling old and new hand-woven pieces.
• The livestock market - camels, sheep and horses traded at weekends.
• The produce and spice sections - dried fruit, nuts and spices in bulk.

When to go

Saturday and Sunday mornings are when the market is fullest and the livestock section runs. Weekdays are much quieter. Summer heat makes midday visits difficult.

Honest expectations

Photography of people needs asking and is sometimes discouraged. Summer heat here is severe with limited shade. Exporting old carpets requires paperwork and permits.

Nearby

Ashgabat is south, and Erbent is north on the desert road.