Zelve Open Air Museum

Zelve is three narrow valleys meeting at a point, their walls cut into a dense warren of dwellings, storerooms, dovecotes, churches, a monastery and a mill, and its distinction from Göreme is that this was a village rather than a monastic complex - people lived here without interruption from the Byzantine period until the 1950s, Christians and Muslims side by side, and a small rock-cut mosque with its minaret carved from the tuff stands among the churches. In 1952 the erosion that shapes all of Cappadocia made the cliffs dangerous enough that the government moved the residents to a new village two kilometres away, and Zelve was left as it stood. The result is a place that feels abandoned rather than ancient. Paths climb between the valleys, one through a tunnel, and much of the interior is fenced off as unsafe, which is a genuine restriction rather than a formality. Paşabağ is on the same ticket.

What you actually see

• The three valleys - the honeycombed cliffs where the village lived.
• The rock mosque - minaret carved from the tuff.
• The churches and mill - the community's other cut buildings.
• The connecting tunnel - the passage between two valleys.

When to go

April to June and September to November. Mornings; the valleys are exposed and hot by midday, and it is quieter before the Göreme circuit arrives.

Honest expectations

Large sections are fenced off as structurally unsafe, and the fencing is there for reason. Paths are steep, loose and involve scrambling in places. Little shade and no facilities beyond the entrance.

Nearby

Paşabağ is on the same ticket a short way along; Çavuşin and Avanos are close.