Kaymaklı Underground City

Kaymaklı is one of the two large underground cities open in Cappadocia, along with Derinkuyu, and it is the wider and lower of the pair - eight levels are known, four are open, and the layout spreads sideways rather than plunging. The tuff is soft enough to dig with hand tools and hardens on contact with air, which is why the excavation was possible at all. What is below is a functioning settlement: stables at the top level with tethering holes cut in the walls, storage rooms, kitchens with blackened ceilings, wine and oil presses, a church, cisterns, and ventilation shafts running the full depth. The defensive feature everyone remembers is the doors - great circular millstones set in slots beside the passages, rolled across to seal a level and openable only from the inside. Communities used these places as refuges rather than permanent homes, retreating underground with livestock when raiders passed. Passages are low, narrow and steep.

History

Its ancient name was Enegup, and the Turkish culture ministry says the first caves may have been dug by the Phrygians in the 8th and 7th centuries BC; Christians made the underground city by the 8th century AD and greatly enlarged it in Byzantine times as a refuge from Arab raids, and it was joined to Derinkuyu by tunnels of 8 to 9 kilometres. Its Christian inhabitants still sheltered in it from Timur's incursions in the 14th century and were taking refuge in such cities as late as the early 20th century; Kaymaklı opened to visitors in 1964 (Wikipedia, Kaymakli underground city).

What you'll find

• The millstone doors - circular blocks that sealed passages.
• The four open levels - stables, kitchens, storage and church.
• The ventilation shafts - the air system running the full depth.
• The presses - wine and oil production rooms underground.

When to go

April to June and September to November. Early or late in the day - the passages are narrow and become genuinely uncomfortable when a coach group is inside.

Good to know

Passages are low enough to require stooping for long stretches and steeply sloped - not suitable for anyone claustrophobic or with knee or back problems. It is cool below but airless when busy.

Nearby

Derinkuyu is the deeper underground city south; Göreme and the valleys are north.

Key facts