Fırtına Valley

The Fırtına - storm - comes down from the Kaçkar range through a steep valley of dense forest, and the road up it from the coast is the spine of the eastern Black Sea's high country. What defines the valley visually are the bridges: single-arch humpbacked stone spans, Ottoman and later, built where the gorge narrows, several still in use and photographed constantly. Along the road are Zilkale castle, the wooden mansions of the Hemşin villages, tea gardens on platforms over the water, and turnings up to the yayla plateaus - Pokut, Sal, Elevit, Ayder - where families spend the summer. The river is rated for whitewater rafting and operators run it from Çamlıhemşin. Rain is the constant: this is the wettest part of Turkey by a wide margin, the forest is temperate rainforest as a result, and mist in the valley is the normal condition rather than the exception.

What you actually see

• The stone bridges - single-arch humpback spans over the river.
• The rainforest - dense wet valley forest on both walls.
• The Hemşin villages - wooden houses along the road.
• The rafting - whitewater runs from Çamlıhemşin.

When to go

June to September; the upper valley and yaylas are snowbound outside that window. Rain is likely on any day in any month - plan around it rather than for it.

Honest expectations

It rains constantly and mist often hides the valley. The road is narrow, winding and busy with minibuses in season. Facilities are village pensions and simple restaurants.

Nearby

Zilkale is up the valley; Pokut plateau, Palovit falls and Ayder are beyond it.