The Voyage to Tokelau

Tokelau has no airstrip, so the nation travels by its ship: the passage from Apia - a day and more of open Pacific each way on the government vessel - carries everything the atolls need and everyone who comes, freight lashed, mail sacked, families berthed and the reef arrivals conducted by barge and skill through the passes. For visitors the voyage is the initiation the destination requires: booking ahead through the Tokelau office, riding the swell's temperament, and arriving as cargo among neighbours rather than tourist among strangers. The ship's schedule is the nation's calendar; adopting it is the visa's real stamp.

The main sights

• The open crossing - a day-plus of Pacific temperament.
• The barge landings - reef-pass arrivals by skill.
• The lifeline cargo - the nation's needs lashed aboard.
• The neighbour deck - travelling as the atolls do.

When to go

May to October favours the crossings; berths book through the official channels ahead - the schedule owns all plans.

What to expect

The swell spares nobody proud - seasickness plans seriously; schedules move with weather and duty, and flexibility is the fare's second half.

Nearby

Apia's departure and the three atolls' arrivals.