The Lagoon Motu

Beyond each village islet, the atoll rims run their uninhabited motu: coconut and pandanus islets where seabirds colonise, coconut crabs patrol, and the villages cross for harvest days, picnics and the fishing camps of tradition - lagoon glass between, the reef's outer boom constant, and the Pacific's simplest geography (sand ring, water lens, sky) performed without audience. Visitors join crossings by arrangement: a boat, a host family's day, lines trailed en route and the motu's hours spent between shade, reef edge and the swimming that needs no name. It is Tokelau's furthest quiet, one lagoon wide.

The landscape

• The uninhabited rings - motu strung on the atoll rim.
• The seabird colonies - noddies and terns in the groves.
• The lagoon crossings - glass water to the far side.
• The harvest days - villages working their commons.

When to go

May to October with the trades; crossings ride village schedules and sea state - arrangement is the method.

Things to know

Everything carries with the boat - water, shade and manners for the commons' rules; the motu belong to the villages' use first.

Nearby

The village islets across each lagoon.