Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

The temple was founded in 1357 for monks returning from study in Sri Lanka, but the chedi that dominates it was raised by King Naresuan after 1592 to mark his victory over the Burmese crown prince in single combat on elephant-back at Nong Sarai - a duel that is one of the central episodes of Thai national history and is depicted repeatedly in art and film. The chedi is around sixty metres and can be climbed by a steep stair to a terrace with a view over the surrounding ruins and, inside, a well. Around the base, rows of seated Buddha images wrapped in saffron cloth line the cloister, and a large reclining Buddha lies in the grounds. Unlike most Ayutthaya sites this is an active temple with resident monks rather than a ruin, so worship goes on around visitors. It sits outside the island and is usually reached by tuk-tuk as part of a circuit.

What you actually see

• The great chedi - around sixty metres, climbable by a steep stair.
• The Buddha rows - saffron-wrapped seated images around the cloister.
• The reclining Buddha - in the grounds beside the chedi.
• The Naresuan story - the 1592 elephant duel the chedi commemorates.

When to go

November to February. Early or late in the day - the site is unshaded and the chedi stair is punishing in heat. Ticketed with a higher foreign rate.

Honest expectations

The chedi stair is steep, narrow and hot with no handrail in places. No shade on the grounds. It is an active temple - dress code applies and worship takes precedence.

Nearby

Wat Phanan Choeng is south; the Ayutthaya island temples are north-west.