Naesosa Temple

Two things bring people to Naesosa. The first is the approach: a straight avenue of firs about six hundred metres long from the ticket gate to the temple gate, planted in the twentieth century, dense and dim and cool, one of the best temple approaches in the country. The second is the Daeungbojeon, rebuilt in the seventeenth century, whose eight lattice door panels are carved through with lotus, chrysanthemum and peony in openwork - and whose paintwork has been left to weather away, so the doors are bare grain, which is exactly why they look as they do. Inside is a wall painting of a white-robed Avalokitesvara. There is also a Goryeo bronze bell brought here from elsewhere. The temple sits below the Byeonsan ridges in the national park, near the coast, and combines easily with a walk or with the sea a few kilometres west.

What you actually see

• The fir avenue - six hundred metres from gate to gate.
• The carved lattice doors - openwork flowers, unpainted.
• The Avalokitesvara painting - on the wall inside the hall.
• The Goryeo bell - in the bell pavilion.

When to go

April to June and October. The avenue is best in early morning light or light rain. Buddha's Birthday and autumn weekends are busy.

Honest expectations

The temple itself is small and takes half an hour. Photography inside the hall is restricted. Ticketed as part of the national park, with a shop street before the gate.

Nearby

Byeonsan's coast and Jikso falls are in the park; Chaeseokgang is on the shore.