Wat Phra That Chae Haeng

Wat Phra That Chae Haeng was founded in 1355 to house a relic and is the principal temple of Nan province, standing on a low hill on the eastern bank across from the town. Its chedi is about fifty-five metres, covered in gilded copper plate, and the form is closer to Lao and Lan Xang architecture than to central Thai - a reminder that Nan spent much of its history oriented east toward Luang Prabang rather than west toward Bangkok, and only came fully under Siamese control in the late nineteenth century. The approach is a long naga stairway, the serpents' bodies running the full length of the steps. Around the chedi is a cloister with Buddha images, and the temple is the focus of Nan's most important festival, held in the sixth lunar month. It is the birth-year temple for people born in the year of the rabbit, who come specifically to make merit here.

What you actually see

• The gilded chedi - about fifty-five metres in copper plate, Lao in form.
• The naga stairway - serpent balustrades running the length of the steps.
• The Lan Xang influence - architecture reflecting Nan's eastward orientation.
• The rabbit-year pilgrimage - merit-making by those born in that year.

When to go

November to February. The main festival falls in the sixth lunar month, usually around April or May, and brings large crowds. An hour covers it.

Honest expectations

The stairway is long and unshaded, though there is a road up. Free with donation boxes. Temple dress code applies. Limited English interpretation.

Nearby

Nan town and Wat Phumin are across the river; Doi Phu Kha is north.