Warorot Market

Warorot, or Kad Luang, is the market Chiang Mai actually uses - a three-storey building with a dense fringe of street stalls around it, running from before dawn until evening, on the edge of the old Chinese and Muslim quarters by the river. The ground floor is food: sai ua, the northern herb sausage; naem, fermented pork; nam prik num and nam prik ong, the roasted chilli dips that define Lanna eating; khaep mu, pork crackling; dried and preserved goods; curry pastes; and a large fresh section. Upper floors sell textiles, hill-tribe fabric, clothing and household goods. Around the building are flower stalls, a Chinese temple, dried-goods lanes and the Ton Lam Yai market alongside. It is a working market with local pricing rather than tourist pricing, and it is the best place in Chiang Mai to buy northern food to take away. Crowded, hot and busy from early morning.

What you actually see

• The northern food - sai ua sausage, naem, chilli dips and pork crackling.
• The three floors - food below, textiles and goods above.
• The street fringe - flower stalls, dried goods and Ton Lam Yai alongside.
• The local pricing - a working market rather than a visitor one.

When to go

November to February. Early morning is when it is fullest and coolest; it runs until evening. Two to three hours covers the building and the surrounding lanes.

Honest expectations

Crowded, hot and narrow inside. It is a working market, not a food hall - seating is limited and much is sold to take away. Little English. Sai ua and other fresh products do not travel well or cross borders.

Nearby

The Ping river and the Chinese quarter are alongside; the old city is west.