Wat Suan Dok

Wat Suan Dok was built in 1370 on what had been a royal flower garden, to house a relic brought by a monk from Sukhothai. The story goes that the relic split in two: one part was enshrined in the chedi here, and the other was placed on a white elephant that was allowed to wander until it stopped, which it did on Doi Suthep, where the mountain temple was then built. The other feature is the cemetery: a cluster of whitewashed chedis of varying sizes holding the ashes of the Lanna royal family, moved here in 1909 from scattered sites around the city by a princess of Chiang Mai. They stand together in an open field, white against the sky with Doi Suthep behind, and late afternoon is when photographers come. There is also a large open-sided viharn with a bronze Buddha. The temple runs a Monk Chat programme where visitors can talk with student monks.

History

King Kue Na founded the temple in 1370 for the monk Sumana Thera, in the middle of Wiang Suan Dok, a walled Lawa settlement older than Chiang Mai whose earthen walls can still be traced. The monk spent two rainy seasons near Lamphun while the king built the temple to receive his relic (Wikipedia, Wat Suan Dok).

What's there

• The white mausoleums - Lanna royal chedis gathered in one field since 1909.
• The golden chedi - holding half of the relic that founded Doi Suthep.
• The open viharn - the large hall with its bronze Buddha.
• Monk Chat - scheduled conversation with student monks.

When to go

November to February; late afternoon for the light on the white chedis with the mountain behind. Monk Chat runs on set days and hours - check the board.

Good to know

Small charge for the viharn, though the cemetery is free. The mausoleum field is compact and photographed from a few angles. It is on a busy road with traffic noise. Temple dress code applies.

Nearby

Wat Umong is west; Chiang Mai old city is a short walk east.

Key facts