Phra Nakhon Khiri

Phetchaburi's hill palace was built around 1860 for King Mongkut, who wanted a summer residence and an observatory, being a serious astronomer as well as a king. The complex is spread over three peaks of Khao Samana and connected by paved paths through frangipani trees. On the western summit stands the residence itself, a low white group of halls in a mixed Thai and European manner, with an open observation platform. The central peak carries Phra That Chom Phet, a white chedi visible from most of the town below. A temple sits on the eastern peak. The views take in Phetchaburi's roofs, the river and the flat coast beyond.

What you actually see

• The royal residence - white halls and an observation deck on the western peak.
• Phra That Chom Phet - the white chedi on the central summit.
• Wat Phra Kaeo Noi - the small temple crowning the eastern peak.
• The funicular - the short cable railway up the hillside from town.

When to go

November to February is dry and cooler, which matters here because the paths between peaks are steps in the open. Go in the first hours after opening. Phetchaburi works as a day trip from Bangkok or a stop on the way to Hua Hin, and the hill also holds an evening light festival in February.

Honest expectations

Macaques live on the hill and are aggressive around food and plastic bags; keep both out of sight. The funicular queues on weekends and the walking route up is steep and unshaded. Interiors are sparsely furnished and shoes come off repeatedly. The view is broad rather than dramatic, over a fairly ordinary provincial town.

Nearby

Phetchaburi's old temples and cave shrines, and the coast at Cha-am.