Jodd Fairs Night Market

Jodd Fairs opened at Rama IX in 2021 after the Ratchada train night market closed, and it took much of that market's crowd and vendors: rows of open-sided tents on a lot behind Central Rama 9, sound systems, and several hundred stalls of grilled seafood, noodles, dessert, cocktails and clothing, with the Bangkok skyline behind. The dish that made it known is leng saap - pork spine in a hot and sour broth heaped into a tower and served on a tray, sold by a stall with a permanent queue, and photographed relentlessly. It is unashamedly a young Bangkok market rather than a heritage one: prices are moderate, the crowd is largely Thai with a growing share of visitors, and it runs from late afternoon until midnight or later. A second branch opened at Dan Neramit. It is open-air and hot early in the evening, and the ground floods in the rains.

What you actually see

• The tented rows - several hundred food and clothing stalls under open sides.
• The leng saap tower - the hot and sour pork spine dish the market is known for.
• The skyline - Bangkok towers behind the market lot.
• The crowd - largely young Thai, with the evening running past midnight.

When to go

November to February, from about six in the evening. It is hot before dark and floods in the rains. Two to three hours.

Honest expectations

Open-air and hot early in the evening; muddy or flooded in the wet season. Very crowded at weekends with queues at the known stalls. Sound systems are loud. It replaced an older market and is not itself historic.

Nearby

Central Rama 9 is adjacent; MRT Phra Ram 9 connects to the rest of the city.