Tamsui

Tamsui sits where the river meets the sea at the northern end of Taipei's metro, which makes it the easiest half-day escape from the city and a favourite evening outing for Taipei residents. It was one of Taiwan's main ports and its layers show: Fort San Domingo was founded by the Spanish, rebuilt by the Dutch, and later leased to the British as a consulate, so a red-brick colonial residence stands beside a squat white fort with a view down the estuary. Along the waterfront runs an old street packed with food stalls selling the town's own snacks, iron eggs simmered dark and chewy, fish crackers and a-gei, fried tofu stuffed with noodles. Ferries cross to Bali on the far bank and to the Fisherman's Wharf, and the whole promenade fills in the late afternoon because the sunset over the river mouth is the best in the Taipei area.

What you actually see

• Fort San Domingo - the Spanish and Dutch fort with the British consular residence beside it.
• The old street - waterfront stalls selling iron eggs, a-gei and fish crackers.
• The sunset - the evening light over the river mouth from the promenade.
• The ferries - crossings to Bali and out to Fisherman's Wharf.

When to go

October to April is the drier, cooler season; the north coast is wet in winter, so a clear evening is worth grabbing. Late afternoon into sunset is the classic timing. Weekends are extremely busy on the old street, with weekday evenings far calmer.

Honest expectations

It is very popular with locals and the waterfront is packed at weekends and on fine evenings, with the old street a slow shuffle through crowds. Much of it is food stalls and souvenir shops rather than heritage. The fort and consular residence are small and take under an hour. Winter on this coast is often grey and drizzly, which cancels the sunset that many people come for.

Nearby

Beitou's hot springs are on the same metro line; the north coast and Yehliu lie further along.