Belize City

Belize City was the capital until 1970 - Hurricane Hattie in 1961 had persuaded the government to move inland to Belmopan - and it remains the largest settlement and the hub through which almost everyone passes. It sits on a low peninsula either side of Haulover Creek, crossed by a swing bridge built in Liverpool in 1923 and still opened by hand with a capstan and long bars when a tall boat needs through, one of very few manually operated swing bridges left anywhere. The Museum of Belize occupies the old colonial prison, the cathedral is the oldest Anglican church in Central America, and the Baron Bliss lighthouse stands on the point.

History

English logwood cutters founded Belize Town in 1638 at a small Maya settlement called Holzuz, a good base on the sea at the outlet of rivers down which logwood and mahogany were floated, and thousands of enslaved Africans were brought here to work in the forests. It coordinated the Battle of St. George's Caye in 1798 and held the courts and government until the 1970s, so that historians say the capital was the colony; hurricanes struck it in 1931 and, with Hattie, in 1961, nearly destroying it, and the government moved to Belmopan in 1970 (Wikipedia, Belize City).

Highlights

• The Swing Bridge - opened by hand with capstan bars, from 1923.
• St John's Cathedral - the oldest Anglican church in Central America.
• The Museum of Belize - in the old colonial prison building.
• The Fort George waterfront - the lighthouse and the sea walk.

When to go

December to April is the dry season. The swing bridge is opened as required rather than to a schedule, historically around dawn and dusk when boats need through. Cruise days fill the tourist village and the surrounding blocks.

Good to know

Belize City has a serious crime problem and visitors are consistently advised to stay in the Fort George area, move by taxi rather than on foot outside it, and avoid the southside entirely. Most travellers pass through rather than stay. Much of the city is run down. It is a transport hub first and a destination a distant second.

Nearby

The cayes are 90 minutes by water taxi; Altun Ha is an hour north.

Key facts