Liyu Lake

Liyu is a natural lake in the hills just outside Hualien, named for the carp-shaped hill that stands over it, and it is the largest body of inland water in the county. A flat path runs the whole way round in about four kilometres, mostly under trees and close to the water, and bicycle hire at the northern end makes the circuit the standard way to spend a morning. Pedal boats and small paddle craft go out on the water. Behind the lake, the Liyu Mountain trail climbs steeply through forest to a lookout over the lake with the Pacific visible beyond it on clear days. In April and May the wooded margins fill with fireflies after dark, and evening walks are organised for them.

What you actually see

• The lakeside cycle circuit - a flat four-kilometre path under trees around the whole shore.
• Liyu Mountain trail - a steep climb behind the lake to a lookout with the coast beyond.
• Spring fireflies - flickering swarms along the wooded margins on April and May evenings.
• Pedal boats and paddle craft - hired at the northern shore for a slow hour on the water.

When to go

Spring and autumn are most comfortable, and the firefly season falls in April and May, when guided evening walks run and the car park fills after dark. Mornings are still and good for reflections. Summer is hot and brings afternoon storms; the winter here is mild but wet. Weekdays are much quieter than weekends.

Honest expectations

It is a pleasant local lake rather than a landmark, and if you have already seen Sun Moon Lake this will feel modest. Firefly evenings are popular enough to be crowded, and torches and phone screens spoil them for everyone. The mountain trail is steep, humid and slippery. Mosquitoes at dusk are severe, and bicycle hire queues on weekends.

Nearby

Hualien city is twenty minutes away and the East Rift Valley opens south from here.