Piz Bernina

Piz Bernina reaches 4,048 metres, which makes it the highest summit of the Eastern Alps and the only peak over four thousand metres in the range - the next four-thousanders west are in the Valais. It stands on the Italian border above the Morteratsch and Scerscen glaciers. Its famous feature is the Biancograt, the north ridge: a long, narrow, symmetrical snow arete rising to the Piz Bianco fore-summit, so clean in shape that it is one of the most recognisable lines in the Alps and among the most photographed. Johann Coaz, who named the mountain after the Bernina pass, made the first ascent in 1850. The normal routes are glaciated and technical, and the mountain is climbed with a guide from the huts over two days. From Diavolezza the whole massif is visible without leaving the terrace.

What's there

• The Eastern Alps' only 4,000er - 4,048 metres by the Italian border.
• The Biancograt - a symmetrical snow arete to the Piz Bianco fore-summit.
• Two big glaciers below - the Morteratsch and Scerscen systems.
• A view without climbing - the whole massif from the Diavolezza terrace.

When to go

June to September for an ascent; any clear day for the view. Two days to climb.

Before you go

This is a serious high-altitude climb on glaciers with crevasse risk, not a walk - it requires a guide, equipment and acclimatisation. Hut places book out. For most visitors the honest plan is the view from Diavolezza or the Bernina railway.

Nearby

Diavolezza faces it; Pontresina and Morteratsch are at the foot.

Key facts