Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa was the magnificent second capital of ancient Sri Lanka, a great royal city that flourished in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and its compact, well-preserved ruins are among the finest on the island. A UNESCO site set among lakes and greenery, it holds the remains of royal palaces, ornate temples, huge stupas and, most beautifully, the Gal Vihara, a set of serene giant Buddha figures carved from a single granite wall, best explored at a gentle pace by bicycle.

History

First a military post of the Sinhalese kingdom, Polonnaruwa was renamed Jananathamangalam by the Cholas after they took Anuradhapura in the 10th century, and Rajaraja I built a Shiva temple here named after his queen, now known as Siva Devale, while the north and centre of the island were governed as a Chola province. Vijayabahu I sent three armies against the city and took it after a siege of seven months, ruling from it from 1070, and under his grandson Parakramabahu the Great, who insisted that not a drop of rain should go to waste, trade and agriculture flourished and the irrigation works surpassed those of the Anuradhapura period. The ancient city is a World Heritage Site (Wikipedia, Polonnaruwa).

Highlights

• The Gal Vihara - the serene giant Buddhas carved from a granite wall.
• The royal palace ruins - the remains of the king's palace and council chamber.
• The Quadrangle - the cluster of ornate sacred buildings.
• The site by bicycle - the compact ruins explored on two wheels.

When to go

This region is drier around May to September, though it can be visited much of the year; go early to explore by bicycle before the midday heat, which is fierce on the exposed site. It is more compact and manageable than the older capital of Anuradhapura.

Before you go

It is hot and largely shadeless, so an early start and a bicycle make it far more enjoyable than walking in the midday sun. It is more compact and better preserved than the rival ancient city of Anuradhapura, so a good choice if seeing only one. A modest dress code applies at the sacred areas. A guide helps bring the history alive.

Nearby

Sigiriya, Dambulla and the Minneriya elephant gathering are within the Cultural Triangle.