Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa was the magnificent second capital of ancient Sri Lanka, a great royal city that flourished in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and its compact, well-preserved ruins are among the finest on the island. A UNESCO site set among lakes and greenery, it holds the remains of royal palaces, ornate temples, huge stupas and, most beautifully, the Gal Vihara, a set of serene giant Buddha figures carved from a single granite wall, best explored at a gentle pace by bicycle.

What you actually see

• The Gal Vihara - the serene giant Buddhas carved from a granite wall.
• The royal palace ruins - the remains of the king's palace and council chamber.
• The Quadrangle - the cluster of ornate sacred buildings.
• The site by bicycle - the compact ruins explored on two wheels.

When to go

This region is drier around May to September, though it can be visited much of the year; go early to explore by bicycle before the midday heat, which is fierce on the exposed site. It is more compact and manageable than the older capital of Anuradhapura.

Honest expectations

It is hot and largely shadeless, so an early start and a bicycle make it far more enjoyable than walking in the midday sun. It is more compact and better preserved than the rival ancient city of Anuradhapura, so a good choice if seeing only one. A modest dress code applies at the sacred areas. A guide helps bring the history alive.

Nearby

Sigiriya, Dambulla and the Minneriya elephant gathering are within the Cultural Triangle.