Jaen Cathedral

Jaen cathedral was begun in 1249 on the site of the main mosque and rebuilt from 1548 to a design by Andres de Vandelvira, whose work also shaped Ubeda and Baeza; the result is one of the most complete Renaissance cathedrals in Spain, with a hall church plan, giant Corinthian pilasters, and a west front by Eufrasio Lopez de Rojas of 1667 that adds a baroque layer. Its plan was carried to the Americas and influenced cathedrals in Mexico, Peru and elsewhere, which is the basis of a long-running campaign for UNESCO listing. The cathedral holds a relic, the Santo Rostro, a cloth said to bear the imprint of Christ's face, shown to the public on Fridays. Beneath the town, large Arab baths survive under a palace.

What you actually see

• The Vandelvira interior - a hall church with giant Corinthian order.
• The baroque west front - a 1667 facade on the Renaissance body.
• The Santo Rostro - a relic displayed publicly on Fridays.
• The choir stalls - carved sixteenth-century woodwork in the nave.

When to go

Spring and autumn; Jaen is severely hot in summer. The cathedral closes for services and keeps a long midday break, and the Santo Rostro showing on Fridays draws local crowds.

Honest expectations

Jaen is off the main tourist routes and services are geared to residents rather than visitors. The cathedral is large and can feel cold and empty. Opening hours are limited and change seasonally.

Nearby

The Arab baths under the Palacio de Villardompardo are close; Ubeda and Baeza lie northeast.