Palgongsan Mountain

Palgongsan runs to 1,193 metres along a ridge north of Daegu and became a national park in 2023 after decades as a provincial one. It is dense with Buddhist sites - Donghwasa on the southern slope, a large temple founded in the Silla period with a colossal modern stone Buddha in its grounds, Pagyesa, Buginsa and dozens of hermitages - and the most visited of them is Gatbawi, a seated stone Buddha of the ninth century on a ridge at around 850 metres, wearing a flat stone slab on its head like a hat. Reaching it means climbing well over a thousand steps, and the belief that Gatbawi grants one wish to each sincere petitioner brings enormous numbers up those steps before university entrance exams in November, when the ridge fills with parents. A cable car runs from near Donghwasa to a viewpoint, and the ridge trails run for hours in both directions.

What you actually see

• Gatbawi - the hatted stone Buddha at the top of the steps.
• Donghwasa - the Silla temple and its colossal stone Buddha.
• The cable car - the lift to the southern viewpoint.
• The ridge trails - long walking routes along the massif.

When to go

April to June and October. Early November brings the exam-season crowds to Gatbawi - moving but very busy. Autumn colour on the temple approaches is excellent.

Honest expectations

The Gatbawi climb is over a thousand steps and takes about an hour - it is a genuine effort. Temples charge entry separately. Weekend traffic on the mountain road is heavy.

Nearby

Daegu city is below; Gyeongju is an hour east.