Donghaksa Temple

Donghaksa is on the eastern flank of Gyeryongsan and is one of the principal training monasteries for Buddhist nuns in Korea - a seminary has run here since 1928, and several hundred women study on the site, which gives the compound a different atmosphere from the big tourist temples. The old pairing is spring here and autumn at Gapsa on the far side of the mountain: the valley road up from the gate is lined with cherry, and in April it is the reason most people come. Within the grounds are three memorial shrines, unusual at a temple, honouring loyalist figures of earlier dynasties, and a stone stupa said to hold relics. Trails from behind the temple climb over the ridge to Gapsa, which makes a good four to five hour crossing of the national park. Because it is a functioning seminary, parts of the compound are closed and quiet is expected.

What you actually see

• The cherry valley - the April approach from the gate.
• The nuns' seminary - a working training monastery.
• The memorial shrines - unusual for a Buddhist compound.
• The ridge trail - the crossing to Gapsa.

When to go

April for the blossom, October for the colour. Weekends in both are heavy. The seminary sets the tone - it is quieter than temples of comparable size.

Honest expectations

Ticketed as part of the national park. Study areas are closed to visitors and photography of residents is not welcome. The buildings are modest; the setting and the atmosphere are the point.

Nearby

Gapsa is over the ridge; Daejeon and the Yuseong hot springs are close.