Shweshwe Fabric

Shweshwe is a printed cotton in indigo, chocolate or red, patterned with small geometric and floral motifs by an acid-discharge process on copper rollers - the acid bleaches the design out of the dyed cloth rather than printing colour onto it, which is why the patterns are crisp and the reverse is nearly as sharp as the face. It arrives stiff with starch, which protects it in transport and is washed out before sewing; the smell and the stiffness are how buyers check authenticity. The cloth came through European trade in the nineteenth century and became thoroughly local: Xhosa, Sotho and Tswana dress traditions all use it, and it is standard for makoti weddings and celebrations. Da Gama Textiles at Zwelitsha holds the original copper rollers and produces the genuine article under the Three Cats and Toto marks; imported imitations are widespread and cheaper.

What to look for

• The discharge printing - acid bleaching patterns out of dyed cloth on copper rollers.
• The starch - fabric sold stiff, washed before sewing, and used as an authenticity test.
• The mill - Da Gama at Zwelitsha, holding the original rollers and marks.
• The wedding use - cloth central to makoti and celebration dress across several cultures.

When to go

All year. Two hours in a fabric shop; mill tours need arranging well ahead.

What to expect

Imitation shweshwe is everywhere and much cheaper - check for the stamped mark on the reverse and the starch. Mill tours are not routinely available to individuals. Fabric shops in Johannesburg and Cape Town carry more choice than the mill town itself.

Nearby

King William's Town has the Amathole museum; East London is on the coast.