Levoča

Levoča was one of the free royal towns of the Spiš region, grown rich on trade, and it kept its medieval walls, its enormous rectangular square and the burgher houses around it. The reason to come is inside St James's Church: an altarpiece carved by Master Paul of Levoča in the early sixteenth century that stands close to nineteen metres tall, the highest Gothic wooden altar known, with a Last Supper in the predella whose figures have the awkward, specific faces of real people. The church holds a dozen more altars besides. Outside, the Renaissance town hall with its arcaded loggia and the cage of shame beside it complete a square that has changed remarkably little. Above the town, a pilgrimage basilica on Mariánska hora draws large gatherings each July.

What you actually see

• Master Paul's altarpiece - the tallest Gothic wooden altar in the world, in St James's Church.
• The main square - one of the largest medieval squares in Slovakia, ringed by burgher houses.
• The town hall and cage of shame - Renaissance arcades and an iron punishment cage.
• Mariánska hora - the pilgrimage basilica on the hill above town.

When to go

May to September for the best weather. The July pilgrimage brings very large crowds to the hill above town. The church interior is dim, so a bright day helps considerably.

Honest expectations

Church entry is by timed guided visit and photography is generally not allowed, which frustrates visitors who came for the altar. The square is large and a little empty outside the summer season. Levoča works best combined with Spiš Castle nearby rather than as a destination on its own.

Nearby

Spiš Castle is fifteen minutes east; the High Tatras rise to the north.