Čičmany

Čičmany is a small village in a valley south of Žilina where the dark timber houses are painted with white geometric patterns, lines, crosses, hearts, chevrons and lozenges, applied around windows, doors and corners. The usual explanation is practical: lime paint on the sun-exposed timber slowed cracking, and over generations the necessity turned into an ornamental language, with motifs shared with the local embroidery. The village burned in 1921 and was rebuilt in the same style, which is why what stands is early twentieth century over a much older tradition. Two of the houses are open as museum interiors showing furnishings and textiles. The patterns have since become a national visual shorthand, printed on everything from ski team uniforms to souvenirs.

History

The village is first recorded in 1272 as Cziczman, its name perhaps from a word for a noisy lumberjack; after a great fire in 1921 it was restored to its old appearance with help from the state, and a folk architecture reserve was founded here in 1977 (Wikipedia, Čičmany).

What you'll find

• The painted houses - white geometric ornament on dark log walls along the main street.
• Radenov house - the most elaborately decorated building, and a museum interior.
• Local embroidery - textile patterns that share their vocabulary with the house painting.
• The valley setting - forested hills enclosing the village on all sides.

When to go

May to September for the easiest travel. Winter is arguably better for photographs, since the white ornament against dark timber and snow is the image the village is known for, though services are minimal then.

Before you go

The village is tiny and a visit takes a couple of hours at most, so the round trip from Žilina is mostly driving. Only a few houses are open inside. Public transport is sparse and awkward, so a car makes the trip viable. It is a living village, so photographing through people's windows is not welcome.

Nearby

Žilina and Rajecké Teplice spa are north; the Malá Fatra mountains are nearby.

Key facts