Sokobanja

Sokobanja sits in a basin between the Ozren and Rtanj mountains and has been a spa since Roman times, with the Ottoman-era hammam still standing and still functioning as a bath over the thermal source, which is a rare survival. Prince Miloš took the waters here in the 1830s and the town grew around treatment for respiratory conditions, which remains its business: sanatoria, inhalation therapy and a promenade culture of slow walks and cafes. Above the town the Ripaljka waterfall drops in stages through beech forest, one of the tallest in Serbia, though it thins to little in dry summers. Sokograd, a ruined medieval fortress, stands on a crag nearby, and the Bovan lake is a short drive away.

What you actually see

• The Turkish bath - the Ottoman hammam still in use over the spring.
• Ripaljka waterfall - a stepped fall in the forest above town.
• Sokograd fortress - the medieval ruin on a crag outside the town.
• Spa promenade - the walking and cafe culture of a working spa.

When to go

May to October; the waterfall is strongest in spring and can nearly dry up by August. Summer is the busy season with Serbian holidaymakers. Sanatoria operate year round.

Honest expectations

Much of the accommodation is dated sanatorium-style and aimed at treatment courses rather than tourists. Summer crowds are heavy. The waterfall disappoints in dry weather. The town is pleasant but low-key, and evening entertainment is limited.

Nearby

Rtanj rises north; Niš lies southwest.