Novi Sad and Petrovaradin

Novi Sad, Serbia's relaxed and elegant second city on the Danube, has a gentler, more Central European feel than buzzing Belgrade, its legacy of Habsburg rule visible in its handsome squares, pastel facades and easygoing cafe culture. Across the river looms the mighty Petrovaradin fortress, a vast star-shaped citadel with a famous upside-down clock and a maze of underground tunnels, which each summer hosts the huge EXIT music festival, one of the most celebrated in Europe.

What you actually see

• Petrovaradin Fortress - the mighty star-shaped citadel over the Danube.
• The main square - the elegant Habsburg-era Trg Slobode.
• The EXIT festival - the famous summer music festival in the fortress.
• The cafe culture - the relaxed squares and Danube setting.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; the EXIT festival in early July is a huge draw, filling the fortress and the city, so book far ahead if visiting then. Otherwise it is a relaxed, easygoing city best enjoyed strolling its squares and the riverside.

Honest expectations

It is a relaxed, pleasant city rather than a place of major sights, so its appeal is the easygoing Central European atmosphere, the fortress and the cafe culture rather than blockbuster attractions; it is seen in a day. During the EXIT festival it is packed and prices soar. It is an easy trip from Belgrade and a gentle, charming counterpoint to the capital.

Nearby

Belgrade is an hour south; the Fruska Gora monasteries and hills are nearby.