Sremski Karlovci

Sremski Karlovci was the cultural and religious capital of the Serbs under Habsburg rule, and the centre reflects that concentration in a very small space: the Patriarchal residence, the cathedral, the first Serbian grammar school founded in 1791, a theological seminary, and a chapel marking the peace negotiations of 1699 that were held here in a purpose-built round pavilion. The main square has a fountain with four lions and a story attached about drinking from it. Wine has been made on these slopes since Roman times, and the local speciality is bermet, a sweet fortified wine flavoured with herbs and fruit that was reputedly served on the Titanic; family cellars offer tastings. The town is compact enough to walk in an hour and busy with day-trippers from Novi Sad.

What you actually see

• The baroque square - the four-lion fountain and the buildings around it.
• The grammar school - the oldest Serbian secondary school, from 1791.
• The Patriarchal residence - the seat of the Habsburg-era metropolitanate.
• Bermet cellars - family wineries pouring the town's sweet speciality.

When to go

April to October; September and October bring the vintage. The town is small and fills with coach groups in the middle of the day, so mornings and late afternoons are better. Winter is quiet and several cellars close.

Honest expectations

The centre is tiny and can be walked in under an hour, so it is a half-day at most. Coach parties dominate the square at midday. Bermet is very sweet and not to everyone's taste. Some buildings are viewable only from outside.

Nearby

Novi Sad lies northwest; Fruška Gora rises to the south.