Jerma Gorge

The Jerma rises in Bulgaria, crosses into Serbia and cuts a narrow gorge through limestone with walls several hundred metres high, and the old road along it runs through short tunnels blasted in the rock, which is what makes the drive memorable. Poganovo monastery, a fourteenth-century foundation with significant frescoes, stands where the gorge widens, and above it a rough path climbs to a viewpoint over the whole canyon. The area is remote, on the edge of a border region with very low population, and the villages along the valley are largely emptied. Griffon vultures and other raptors use the cliffs. Beyond the monastery the road deteriorates and the gorge continues into ground that is walked rather than driven.

What you actually see

• The rock tunnels - the old road blasted through the gorge walls.
• Sheer limestone walls - the canyon rising directly from the river.
• Poganovo monastery - the medieval foundation in the widening.
• Raptors overhead - vultures and eagles using the cliffs.

When to go

April to October; spring brings high water and the strongest flow. Autumn colour in the gorge is good. Winter access is possible but the road is narrow and icy in places.

Honest expectations

The road is narrow, unlit in the tunnels and in poor repair. The region is remote with few services and almost no accommodation. Villages are largely abandoned. The viewpoint path above the monastery is steep and unmarked.

Nearby

Poganovo monastery is in the gorge; Pirot lies northwest.