Apia and Vailima

Apia, the capital of Samoa on the north coast of Upolu, is a small, relaxed and friendly island town, the country's hub and a gentle introduction to Samoan life. Along its harbourfront and in its colourful, bustling market, the rhythm of island life unfolds beneath a backdrop of green hills. Nearby stands the grand Baha'i House of Worship, and, in the hills above, the beautiful estate of Vailima, once the home of the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island, who spent his last years here, beloved by the Samoans, and is buried on the mountain above.

What you actually see

• The Apia market and waterfront - the colourful market and harbour.
• Vailima - Robert Louis Stevenson's hillside home and museum.
• Stevenson's tomb - the writer's grave on Mount Vaea above.
• The Baha'i temple - the grand house of worship nearby.

When to go

May to October, the drier, cooler season, for the most pleasant weather; the market and waterfront are liveliest in the mornings, and a Sunday in Apia offers a glimpse of the deeply Christian rhythm of Samoan life, with church singing and a day of rest. The Vailima museum and the hike to Stevenson's tomb are best in the cool morning.

Honest expectations

Apia is a small, low-key town rather than a grand capital, so its appeal is its relaxed island atmosphere, the market and the Stevenson connection rather than major sights, and much of Samoa shuts down on Sundays for church and rest. As a friendly, easygoing gateway to the islands, with its colourful market and the moving legacy of Robert Louis Stevenson at Vailima, though, Apia is a pleasant and characterful base.

Nearby

The waterfalls, the To Sua trench and the beaches of Upolu are within reach.