Apia and Vailima

Apia, the capital of Samoa on the north coast of Upolu, is a small, relaxed and friendly island town, the country's hub and a gentle introduction to Samoan life. Along its harbourfront and in its colourful, bustling market, the rhythm of island life unfolds beneath a backdrop of green hills. Nearby stands the grand Baha'i House of Worship, and, in the hills above, the beautiful estate of Vailima, once the home of the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island, who spent his last years here, beloved by the Samoans, and is buried on the mountain above.

History

Robert Louis Stevenson bought 314 acres above Apia in 1890 and began building a home there; by 1891 his mansion, Villa Vailima, named after the nearby village, was finished. He died in 1894 and was buried at the top of Mount Vaea, overlooking the house. His family no longer used the villa after his death, and it became the official residence of the governor of German Samoa, then of the New Zealand administrator, and later of the Samoan head of state. Badly damaged by cyclones in the early 1990s, it was restored and opened on 5 December 1994 as the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum (Wikipedia, Robert Louis Stevenson Museum).

What's there

• The Apia market and waterfront - the colourful market and harbour.
• Vailima - Robert Louis Stevenson's hillside home and museum.
• Stevenson's tomb - the writer's grave on Mount Vaea above.
• The Baha'i temple - the grand house of worship nearby.

When to go

May to October, the drier, cooler season, for the most pleasant weather; the market and waterfront are liveliest in the mornings, and a Sunday in Apia offers a glimpse of the deeply Christian rhythm of Samoan life, with church singing and a day of rest. The Vailima museum and the hike to Stevenson's tomb are best in the cool morning.

Good to know

Apia is a small, low-key town rather than a grand capital, so its appeal is its relaxed island atmosphere, the market and the Stevenson connection rather than major sights, and much of Samoa shuts down on Sundays for church and rest. As a friendly, easygoing gateway to the islands, with its colourful market and the moving legacy of Robert Louis Stevenson at Vailima, though, Apia is a pleasant and characterful base.

Nearby

The waterfalls, the To Sua trench and the beaches of Upolu are within reach.