Nyamirambo

Nyamirambo is the part of Kigali that stays up: a dense quarter southwest of the centre with a long-established Muslim community, mosques, tailors, barbers, milk bars and grilled meat places that run late. The Nyamirambo Women's Centre, a cooperative set up in 2007, runs walking tours led by women from the neighbourhood taking in the market, a tailor, a hairdresser and a home-cooked meal, with the income going into its literacy and sewing programmes.

What you actually see

• The women's centre walks - neighbourhood tours led by local women, ending with a meal.
• The Green Mosque - the quarter's landmark mosque with its minaret.
• The street life - milk bars, barbers, tailors and brochettes running late.
• The market - the local produce and goods market at the heart of the quarter.

When to go

Year round; the walks run daily and should be booked ahead. Evenings are when the quarter is liveliest. Friday prayers change the rhythm of the day.

Honest expectations

Walks must be booked in advance and cannot be joined on the spot. It is a working residential quarter and photography of people needs asking. The streets are steep and unpaved in places.

Nearby

Central Kigali is northeast, and the Kandt House Museum is beyond it.