Ryazan Kremlin

The kremlin sits on a hill above the Trubezh, with wide flood meadow beyond it and almost nothing built on that side, so it keeps a horizon that most Russian city centres have lost. The earth ramparts survive but not the walls. The dominant building is the Assumption cathedral of 1693 to 1699 by Yakov Bukhvostov, a serf architect: enormous for its date, red brick with white limestone carving around the windows and portals worked in deep relief, each frame different, and it is the carving rather than the scale that people come for. Beside it is a bell tower of the early nineteenth century, and behind, the older Archangel cathedral and the palace of Oleg, a long seventeenth-century building now the main museum. Old Ryazan, the medieval city destroyed by the Mongols in 1237, is not here but about fifty kilometres away - the town moved and took the name.

What you actually see

• The Bukhvostov carving - deep white limestone relief on red brick, each window frame different.
• The 1699 cathedral - the Assumption, very large for a provincial church of its date.
• The meadow horizon - flood meadow beyond the hill with nothing built on it.
• The palace of Oleg - a long seventeenth-century building holding the museum.

When to go

May to September; the meadow floods in spring. Half a day, longer with the museum.

Honest expectations

The cathedral is unheated and open to visitors only in the warm months. Museums are ticketed separately. The medieval city of Old Ryazan is a separate site fifty kilometres away and is an earthwork, not ruins. Labelling is Russian.

Nearby

The Trubezh and Oka are below; Old Ryazan is downriver.