Piatra Neamț

Piatra Neamț sits in a bowl of hills on the Bistrița river, and the setting does most of the work: Cozla, Pietricica and Cernegura rise directly above the streets, and a cable car climbs from near the centre to the Cozla ridge for a view over the town and the valley. In the old core stands the princely court ensemble built by Stephen the Great at the end of the fifteenth century, with the church of Saint John the Baptist and a bell tower beside it, a compact and well-preserved example of Moldavian architecture with its banded stonework and small proportions. The town has a good regional museum, a small zoo on the hillside and a park along the river, and it works as a base for Ceahlău and the Bicaz reservoir a short drive west. It is a comfortable, green provincial town rather than a sight in itself.

What you actually see

• Stephen the Great's church - the princely court church and its bell tower.
• The cable car - a lift to the Cozla ridge above the town.
• The regional museum - archaeology and local history collections.
• The riverside park - walks along the Bistrița below the hills.

When to go

April to October for walking and the cable car; autumn colour on the surrounding hills is the best time of year here. Winter brings modest skiing on Cozla. The cable car has maintenance closures, so check if it is the main draw.

Honest expectations

The town centre mixes historic fabric with heavy communist blocks and the result is uneven. The cable car is short and the summit facilities are dated. Museums close on Mondays. It is a base rather than a destination, and a day covers it.

Nearby

Ceahlău and the Bicaz reservoir lie west; Neamț citadel and the monasteries are north.