Montesinho Natural Park

Montesinho covers about seventy-five thousand hectares in the far north-east of Portugal against the Spanish border, and it is the emptiest corner of the country - rolling uplands of heather and broom, oak and chestnut woods, small rivers, and around ninety villages, many of them with populations in single or double figures. It holds one of the more significant Iberian wolf populations in Portugal, along with roe deer, wild boar, otters and a strong raptor list; wolves are present but effectively never seen. The villages are the other draw: Rio de Onor is divided by the border with a Spanish half, and both sides historically ran a communal system of shared land, bread ovens and herds that survived into living memory. Montesinho is also smoked-sausage country, and Bragança below has a castle and a well-preserved medieval core.

What you actually see

• The uplands - heather, broom and oak across seventy-five thousand hectares.
• The wolves - a significant Iberian wolf population, present but almost never seen.
• Rio de Onor - a village split by the border, with a communal tradition on both sides.
• The emptiness - around ninety villages, many nearly depopulated.

When to go

April to June for flowers and birds; September to November for chestnuts and colour. Two to four days. Winter is severely cold and roads can close with snow.

Honest expectations

Very remote - a car is essential and minor roads are rough. Wolf sightings are effectively impossible; this is habitat, not a wildlife-watching destination. Accommodation and food are limited outside Bragança. Winters are harsh.

Nearby

Bragança and its castle are south; the Spanish border runs along the northern edge.