Monte Palace Tropical Garden

The gardens at Monte occupy the grounds of a former hotel estate on the slope above Funchal, laid out down a ravine so that nearly every path involves steps. Planting is deliberately mixed: cycads and tree ferns from Madeira's own laurel forest sit beside Japanese-style pools with red bridges, koi, stone lanterns and clipped azaleas, with proteas and South African species on the drier terraces. Panels of azulejo tiles collected from mainland Portugal are set into walls along the route, and separate pavilions hold African sculpture and a mineral collection. This is a private foundation garden rather than a botanical institution, and the arrangement reflects a collector's taste more than a scientific plan.

What you actually see

• The Japanese-style ravine - pools, red bridges and koi under tree ferns.
• The tile panels - azulejos set into the walls along the paths.
• The exotic terraces - proteas, cycads and South African planting.
• The collections - African sculpture and minerals in separate pavilions.

When to go

Open all year, with camellias flowering from winter into spring and proteas holding through much of the year. Mornings are clearer, as cloud settles on Monte during many afternoons. Two to three hours covers it at a comfortable pace. Taking the cable car up and a bus back down works better than doubling back on the same route.

Honest expectations

Everything is uphill or downhill and the steps are numerous, which rules it out for shaky knees and strollers. The mix of styles reads as cluttered to some visitors. Entry is not cheap for a garden of this size. Monte catches cloud and drizzle far more often than Funchal, so a bright morning below can turn damp up here.

Nearby

The Monte church, the toboggan run and Funchal's other hillside gardens.