Mercado dos Lavradores

Funchal's market opened in 1940 and still looks it: a modernist building of ramps and galleries around an open court, with tiled panels of fishwives and farmers at the entrances. Flower sellers work the courtyard, some in the striped Madeiran skirts, selling orchids and bird of paradise cut that morning. The upper galleries are fruit, and this is where the island parts company with the mainland: custard apples, tree tomatoes, banana passionfruit and a dozen things that do not travel. Downstairs is the fish hall, where the black scabbard fish is laid out whole, a deep-water animal with black skin and glassy teeth, sold beside tuna steaks.

What you actually see

• The fish hall - black scabbard fish and tuna cut on marble slabs.
• The fruit galleries - island fruit that never reaches export markets.
• The flower court - orchids and bird of paradise under the open middle.
• The tiled panels - 1940s azulejo scenes of fishermen and market women.

When to go

Morning, and Friday morning above all, when growers come in from the north of the island and the place runs at full strength. Saturday winds down early and Sunday it is closed. The fish is laid out first thing and thins out by midday. Come before the cruise passengers walk up from the harbour.

Honest expectations

Fruit sellers on the upper level push free tasting slices hard and then quote startling prices by the kilo, so agree a price before anything is bagged. Much of the market now sells to visitors rather than to households and prices reflect it. The fish hall smells like a fish hall, particularly in the heat.

Nearby

Funchal's old town and its painted doors begin next door; the cable car station is a short walk.