Choco Frito

Choco frito à setubalense is cuttlefish - choco, not squid, which is a different animal with a different texture - cleaned, cut into thick strips or left in larger pieces, marinated briefly with garlic and sometimes a little wine or vinegar, dusted in flour and deep fried, served with lemon wedges, chips and a simple salad. Done properly the outside is crisp and the inside stays tender, which depends on the cuttlefish being fresh and the oil hot; done badly it is rubber. The Sado estuary supplies it, and Setúbal has made it the city's signature to the point that it has a festival, restaurants that serve almost nothing else, and a running argument about who does it best. It is cheap, unglamorous everyday food rather than a delicacy, which is the point. The other Setúbal specialities are the fried fish generally and the moscatel to finish.

What's there

• The cuttlefish - choco, thicker and firmer than squid, from the Sado estuary.
• The frying - flour dusting and hot oil, crisp outside and tender within.
• The plate - lemon, chips and salad, and nothing else.
• The local argument - which Setúbal restaurant does it properly.

When to go

Year-round, at lunch or dinner. A meal. The best places fill at lunchtime with people who work nearby.

Good to know

It is deep-fried and heavy - a full plate is a lot. Quality varies sharply with freshness and oil temperature; the cheap versions are chewy. Portions are large by any standard. Not a dish for anyone avoiding fried food.

Nearby

The Livramento market supplies much of it; the Arrábida and Tróia are close.