Morskie Oko Lake

Morskie Oko - the eye of the sea, from an old belief that it connected underground to the Baltic - lies at 1,395 metres in a bowl closed on three sides by the highest walls in the Polish Tatras, with Rysy and Mieguszowieckie above it. It is about 35 hectares and up to 51 metres deep, and the water is a strong green over pale scree. Getting there is the thing to understand: private vehicles stop at Palenica Bialczanska and the last nine kilometres are a metalled road closed to traffic, walked in about two hours each way, or ridden most of the way in a horse-drawn cart - an arrangement that has been criticised on welfare grounds for the loads and the gradient. It is the most visited spot in the Tatras and on a summer weekend the path carries thousands. Going early, or in September, changes it entirely. A refuge on the shore has been serving since 1908.

What you actually see

• A closed glacial bowl - the highest Polish Tatra walls rising directly from the water.
• Nine kilometres on foot - a metalled road closed to private cars, two hours each way.
• The 1908 refuge - a wooden shelter on the shore, still serving.
• Green water over scree - about 35 hectares and 51 metres deep.

When to go

June to October; early morning or September to avoid the crowds. A day.

Honest expectations

It is the busiest place in the Tatras - summer weekends bring thousands onto one path. The horse carts are contested on welfare grounds. There is no shortcut; the nine kilometres must be walked or ridden. Snow and ice make the route serious from November.

Nearby

The Valley of Five Polish Lakes is above; Zakopane is north.