Dunajec River Gorge

The Dunajec has cut a deep, tightly bent gorge through the limestone of the Pieniny, with walls rising several hundred metres above the water and the Slovak bank directly opposite for most of the way. The traditional way through it is by raft: several long wooden dugouts lashed side by side, punted by two men in embroidered highland dress who steer, talk and point out the rock formations. The trip takes a little over two hours at low water and covers about eighteen kilometres. Above the gorge stands Trzy Korony, the three crowned peak that gives the classic view down onto the river's bends from a summit platform.

What you actually see

• The gorge walls - vertical limestone faces closing in on both sides as the river doubles back on itself.
• The raft crews - punters in traditional Pieniny costume working the boats with long poles.
• Trzy Korony - the peak above the gorge, climbed separately, with a railed platform over the drop.
• The riverside path - a paved walking and cycling route along the bank used to return on foot or by bike.

When to go

Rafts run from spring until late autumn, roughly April to October, and stop when water levels or weather make it unsafe. Morning departures avoid the worst of the queue and the midday heat. July and August are busiest, with long waits at the embarkation point. September is a good compromise, with warm days, clear light and shorter lines.

Honest expectations

The water is calm the whole way, so anyone expecting whitewater will be bored, and rafts leave only when they have enough passengers. The price per person is high for the time on the water, and you still have to get back to your car by bus, bike or taxi. In rain you sit exposed under a plastic cape, and there is no shade in high summer.

Nearby

Szczawnica spa town is at the downstream end, and the Pieniny trails and Niedzica castle are close by.