Sugar Beach, Sipalay

Sugar Beach - Langub to locals - is a stretch of coarse, warm-toned sand on the coast north of Sipalay town, and the small awkwardness of getting there is exactly what has preserved it: there is no road in, so arrival means a tricycle to the river at Montilla and then a boatman poling or motoring across the mouth, which costs almost nothing and takes five minutes. On the other side are a handful of long-established resorts run mostly by expatriates, a few beach bars, and about a kilometre of sand backed by palms and cliffs at either end. There is nothing to do beyond swimming, walking, kayaking to the offshore rocks and eating, which is the point. Sipalay's dive sites - including several wrecks and the reefs of the Tinagong Dagat area - are reached from the town side, and Danjugan Island is up the coast.

The landscape

• The copper sand - the warm-toned beach between cliffs.
• The river crossing - the short boat that is the only way in.
• The small resorts - a handful of places along the sand.
• The offshore rocks - kayak and snorkel targets in the bay.

When to go

December to May for settled weather; the habagat brings surf and rain to this coast. It is quiet year-round outside Holy Week.

What to expect

Getting there is a long trip from anywhere and the last leg is a boat, not a road. There are no ATMs or shops on the beach - bring cash. Power and internet can be intermittent, and the sand is coarse rather than powder.

Nearby

Sipalay town's dive shops and wrecks are across the river; Danjugan Island is up the coast at Cauayan.