La Paz Sand Dunes

The Ilocos coast north of Laoag holds something that looks imported: a genuine dune field, the La Paz sand dunes, rolling for kilometres between the city and the sea in ridges of pale sand held loosely by scrub. Geologically it is a coastal dune system fed by river sediment and the northeast monsoon; practically it is the north's favourite adrenaline stop. Drivers run stripped 4x4s and buggies up and over the crests at speed - the ride is a rollercoaster with a seatbelt and a lot of shouting - and stop on the high ridges so passengers can sandboard down, lying or standing, on waxed plywood boards. The dunes have also long served Philippine cinema as an instant desert, standing in for everywhere from Mad Max country to biblical wilderness. Late afternoon is the hour: the sand goes gold, the wind drops, and the South China Sea sits flat beyond the last ridge.

What you actually see

• The dune field - pale ridges rolling toward the sea.
• The 4x4 ride - buggies over the crests at speed.
• Sandboarding - waxed boards down the slip faces.
• The film country - the desert that stood in for other worlds.

When to go

November to April for dry, cooler days; late afternoon for light and manageable sand temperature. Summer midday sand is genuinely too hot for bare feet.

Honest expectations

The rides are rough - not for bad backs, necks or those prone to motion sickness. Sand gets into cameras and phones; bring a bag. Prices are per vehicle, so groups pay less each.

Nearby

Paoay's church and lake, the Kapurpurawan rock formation and Pagudpud's beaches all lie along the Ilocos coast.