Dinagat Islands

Dinagat is a province of islands lying between Surigao and Leyte Gulf, and it remains one of the least-visited corners of the country despite sitting an hour from Siargao's airport traffic. Its distinguishing feature is geological: much of the island is ultramafic rock, high in metals and hostile to ordinary plants, which has produced a stunted, wind-shaped forest that everyone calls the bonsai forest - dwarf trees a metre or two high spreading over ridges with views to the sea. The same geology has made the province a mining district, which is a live local subject. Around the coast are Bitaog and Punta Bilar's beaches, the lagoons and cliff formations at Kabakab and Isla Aga, caves, and clear water with very little boat traffic. Infrastructure is thin - ferries, habal-habal, small lodges - and travel here takes patience and cash.

History

The name means "of the sea", from the Visayan dagat. Settlers from Bohol and Leyte came here under Spanish rule, and Dinagat was founded as a pueblo on 25 April 1855 under Governor-General Manuel Crespo; Loreto, first called Mabua after its foaming river, became a pueblo on 4 September 1890 (Wikipedia, Dinagat Islands).

Highlights

• The bonsai forest - dwarf trees on ultramafic ridges.
• The cliff coves - lagoons and rock formations round the coast.
• The empty beaches - shore with almost no development.
• The island crossings - boats between the province's islands.

When to go

March to October for the calmest crossings; this coast is exposed to the northeast monsoon from late in the year. Ferries are weather-dependent year-round.

Practical notes

Tourism infrastructure is minimal - few lodges, limited food options, ATMs only in the main towns. Getting between sites takes boats and motorbikes and a lot of time. Bring cash.

Nearby

Surigao City is the ferry port; Siargao and Bucas Grande lie east across the strait.