Mantaro Valley

The Mantaro is one of the wide fertile valleys of the central Andes, and its distinguishing feature is craft specialisation by village: Cochas Chico and Cochas Grande burn designs into gourds, San Jerónimo de Tunán works silver filigree, Hualhuas weaves wool tapestries and ponchos, Molinos and Aco make ceramics, San Agustín de Cajas makes hats. Each is a short colectivo ride from Huancayo and workshops sell directly. The valley is also dense with festivals - the Huaconada at Mito in January, Santiago in July when livestock are marked and danced over, carnival, and patron days in every village - and with its own musical tradition, the huayno wanka with its saxophone and violin orchestras. The Wanka people held this valley before the Inca and their identity remains strong. Huancayo itself is a large working city rather than a tourist town.

What you actually see

• The craft villages - gourd carving, silver filigree, weaving and ceramics, each in its own place.
• The festivals - Huaconada, Santiago and village patron days through the year.
• The music - huayno wanka played by saxophone and violin orchestras.
• The Wanka identity - a strong regional culture predating the Inca.

When to go

May to September for dry weather; July for Santiago and January for the Huaconada. Two to four days to see several villages properly.

Honest expectations

Huancayo is a busy industrial city with little charm for visitors, and the interest is in the villages around it. Workshops vary from serious to superficial. Getting between villages needs colectivos and patience. At 3,250 metres.

Nearby

Cochas, Hualhuas and San Jerónimo are all short rides from Huancayo; Jauja is north.