Gocta Waterfall

Gocta drops in two great tiers down a cloud-forest wall in the Amazonas region of northern Peru, a ribbon of white water measured at around 771 metres, which places it among the tallest waterfalls in the world, though the way such falls are measured is much argued over. Extraordinarily, it was unknown outside its own valley until a German engineer brought it to outside attention, with its height announced publicly in 2006: the local villagers had always known it, but a legend of a blonde mermaid who would curse anyone who spoke of the falls kept them quiet. It is reached on a hike of two to three hours from the villages of Cocachimba or San Pablo, through farmland and then dense, dripping cloud forest alive with birds, ending at a pool where the spray soaks everyone who approaches. The region around it holds the fortress of Kuélap and the cliff tombs of the Chachapoya, and remains one of the least visited corners of the country.

What you actually see

• The two-tier fall - the enormous drop seen from the trail and from the village.
• The base pool - the spray-soaked amphitheatre at the foot of the lower tier.
• The cloud forest walk - the trail through dripping forest rich in birdlife.
• The village viewpoint - the full height of the falls seen from Cocachimba.

When to go

The falls are strongest in the wetter months from around March, but the trail is muddiest then; June to September is drier for walking with the fall reduced but still impressive. Mornings usually have the clearest view before cloud closes in over the top tier. Guides are arranged in the villages.

Honest expectations

The hike is long, often muddy and slippery, with real ascent on the return, so it demands reasonable fitness; horses can be hired for part of the way from Cocachimba. The upper tier is frequently hidden in cloud, so the full height is not guaranteed. The region is remote, reached by long bus journeys or a flight to Jaén, and infrastructure is basic, which is precisely why it stays quiet.

Nearby

The Kuélap fortress and the Chachapoya sarcophagi at Karajía are within reach; Chachapoyas is the regional base.